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PANDEMIC ALERT LEVEL
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Tracking the next pandemic: Avian Flu Talk

any generator gurus here?

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    Posted: June 04 2006 at 1:12pm
i dont know a thing about generators so plz bear with me...

will a 1200 watt generator run a full size fridge?

i meed a power source to keep my fridge going to keep

my kids meds cool...
 
i think my total watage is 612 if i did the math right
 
so this should work right?

thanks in advance

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 04 2006 at 1:23pm
Amps times Volts? So your fridge uses only a little over five amps?
If so, then you are correct. But have to consider startup wattage.
A 1200 might do it. Will check some and get back.
 
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thanks sir
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 04 2006 at 1:29pm
Well, it seems like startup wattage is about three times running wattage. So I would have to say no it will not.
Recheck amperage on the fridge, then times the voltage (110-120) then times three. Hope this helps.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 04 2006 at 2:03pm
115 volts and 4.5 amps
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 04 2006 at 3:31pm
Hmmmmm, it's possible, but I would hate for you to spend money for one that would not fit your needs. I would suggest a larger one, and then if you need to, you can run fans or lights etc.
Coleman makes a 2500 watt, then you also have the Chinese made generators. I have saw 2000 watt units for about $225 and 4000 watt units for $325. Or check pawnshops or want adds for used ones.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NawtyBits Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 04 2006 at 5:38pm
Something about having enough capacity to handle the start-up surge that electric motors suffer from....spinning a motor is much easier than getting one running from a dead stop.

nawty
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2ifbyC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 04 2006 at 5:47pm
It's not fair that the laws of physics always seems to run the price up. Thumbs Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scotty Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 05 2006 at 10:34am
If you must have ice then you are going to adjust your thinking. Stop treating ice as an on-demand convenience and make it as an essential product in large batches.

Bypass the thermostat on your freezer, fill it with water, run it directly off your generator and switch it off manually when a full batch of ice has been made.

Make as much ice as you can store in a well insulated cool room and then give yourself, your freezer and your generator a well earned rest.

That's one start-up, no control gear, no wiring, no batteries, no inverter and nothing to go wrong. You can access the spare power from your generator during the freezing process provided that you start up the freezer first.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dundeels01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 06 2006 at 7:47pm

ops144

You may find the below link helpful.  It's from Honda's Generator Website.  I found it to be pretty useful and educational information.  If you scroll down toward the bottom of the page, you will see a chart that shows average starting and running watts for many of the items that you will probably be very interested in running should you choose to purchase a generator.  Good luck!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scotty Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 07 2006 at 3:33am
Very well done dundeels. This is good solid stuff.
    
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill 100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 07 2006 at 1:03pm
I bought a generator from wal-mart, ProForce, 3,125 watts for $297.43 plus tax. I have found the problem with the bigger ones is the amount of gas they use. Mine says 3 gallons for 10 hours on half load, I bought 4-55 gallon drums, but I have never stored that much gas before. I don't want to blow anything up. Anybody got any tips on storing gas. I have some of that Sta-Bil (fuel stabilizer) I got that from wal-mart too. I know you have to keep it out of the sun.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2ifbyC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 07 2006 at 6:52pm
Originally posted by Bill 100 Bill 100 wrote:

Anybody got any tips on storing gas.
 
Congrats on the gen set! You'll never be sorry if you take care of it properly.
 
Some cities/counties have restrictions/limits on gasoline storage. You might want to discreetly check it out. Could also affect your insurance if anything bad does happen.
 
I plan on keeping more than my share. That's why I'm watching this topic. You're correct on the sun and Sta-Bil issue.
 
 
 
 
.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill 100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 08 2006 at 3:36am
Your right about the laws and regulation. I have called everybody in the book (fire marshal, state police, state government) to find out about laws and regulations for storing gas. I found the only laws in my state was for inground tanks. I thought that strange, I expected some kind of restrictions, I mean it can blowing up. I read on the internet there was a state that allows 25 gallons per resident and 2,000 for a farm I forgot what state it was.
I think there are a lot more gathering info on generators too, over 240 views, and only 13 posts. This is a good place for information.
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I bought a Tri-Gas Carb for my gen. NG, Propane or regular gas. In researching it. The NG supply will last longer than all utilities. No storage issues, and the cost breaks down to this.... NG will cost  .88 cents for the same run time for a gallon of gas.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 40acrediesel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 08 2006 at 2:59pm
the .88 cents sounds suspiciously low.  I know you cannot get the same energy out of natural gas that you can propane.  Most dual fuels are derated on natural gas.  Propane has about 92,000 btu/gall.  Diesel has about 140,000 btu / gal.  Gasoline has about 113,000.  I have heard that Stabil is not that good of a product.  I think www.priproducts.com is pretty good stuff by all accounts.
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Natural gas is billed in THERMS.
bullet A therm represents a unit or block of 100,000 btu of fuel.
bullet The national average price per therm is around 80 cents.  
bullet A generator engine running at 3600 rpm under full load consumes on average about 10,000 btu per horsepower per hour.

Using these figures, we can figure the estimated usage for any size engine.  For instance a 10hp engine used on a 5000 watt generator running at FULL load should use no more than 100,000 btu's per hour and cost approximately 80 cents per hour to operate.  At the usual 50% load (2500 watts output average) the same engine should use no more than 50,000 btu per hour and cost approximately forty cents per hour to operate.

To compare that to gasoline (110,000 btu per gallon) simply times the cost of 1 therm of natural gas by 1.1 to arrive at the comparable value.  For example, a therm of natural gas at eighty cents times 1.1 would equal eighty eight cents per gallon. 

So if you are paying over $0.88 per gallon for gasoline, you can save by using natural gas. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AVanarts Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 08 2006 at 4:00pm
911bob,
 
Have you had a chance to use that  trifuel carb yet?  I was thinking about getting one but would like to hear from someone who has already tried them.
 
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Hi AVanarts, I read about these a couple of months ago. I placed my order 2 months ago. I git my UPS tracking# yesterday, it will be here next week. I was told because of the Hurricane season.....they were running behind.
I am sure the BF has been an issue also.
 
I will find the thread I found it on and post it. Give me a few minutes. It came very recomended.
 
Bob
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill 100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 08 2006 at 4:21pm

911bob

I am interested too.

We could have months of gas after electric goes out. I have had ice storms with the power outs for weeks and everything else and gas was the only thing that kept on ticking.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 08 2006 at 4:42pm
Hi Guys....I can not find the thread, sorry. Here is the link to where I got mine. I have no affilation w/ this Co. Just a customer....http://www.propane-generators.com/a-c_kits.htm#1919%20kit%20prices
I will post more w/ I have installed and testeed. BTW, good luck getting thru by phone. The customer service leaves a lot to be desired. My guess is they are busy......go figure. Place your order on-line. They take Paypal. I have a Coleman 6250 costw/shipping $200.00
 
Bob
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Thanks Bob
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thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill 100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 17 2006 at 1:02pm
 
Chevron Recommended Gasoline Storage Practices

This section presents storage recommendations of a general nature, followed by recommendations and comments for some specific uses or situations.

General Storage Recommendations

Three precautions will delay the deterioration of gasoline:

  • Fill containers about 95% full.
  • Cap containers tightly.
  • Store containers out of direct sunlight in a location where the temperature stays below 80°F most of the time (a vehicle or piece of equipment with gasoline in the fuel tank may be stored in direct sunlight as long as the tank is shaded from the sun).

The first two actions reduce the evaporation of gasoline during storage and reduce the exposure of gasoline to air and water vapor. (See Background Information section.) The 5% air space allows room for the liquid gasoline to expand if its temperature rises.

If weather or storage conditions will keep the gasoline warmer than 80°F much of the time, add a fuel stabilizer additive to the gasoline. Fuel stabilizer additives are available at auto supply stores and some service stations and convenience stores. Follow the label directions. The best mixing is achieved when the stabilizer is added to the container before it is filled with gasoline. The stabilizer will work only if it is added to fresh gasoline; it can’t fix gasoline that has started to deteriorate.

Federal and California reformulated gasolines will survive storage as well or better than conventional gasoline.

Adding oil to gasoline doesn’t change its stability. Gasoline-oil mixtures for two-stroke-cycle engines will survive storage as well as gasoline itself.

Note: The volatility of gasoline is tailored for the range of temperatures expected in the locality where it is sold. Engines fueled with "summer gasoline" may be more difficult to start in cold weather. (See Volatility section.)

Storage Containers

Store gasoline only in a container clearly intended for the purpose.

One and two and five gallon containers should carry a sticker indicating they are approved for gasoline storage by the Underwriters Laboratories (UL). A plastic container has the advantage that it will not rust if the gasoline is contaminated with water or if the container is stored in a wet place.

A 60-gallon metal drum is the only container approved by the Uniform Fire Code for the storage of more than five gallons of gasoline.

The Uniform Fire Code limits the amount of gasoline in residential buildings to the amount "necessary for maintenance purposes and operation of equipment," not to exceed a maximum of 25 gallons.

Note that local Fire Department regulations may supersede the Uniform Fire Code. When storing more that five gallons of gasoline it is best to check with your local Fire Department for local regulations.

Do not store a container of gasoline near an ignition source such as an appliance pilot light.

Vehicles

This section applies to cars, trucks, motorcycles, and motor homes.

Follow the general storage recommendations.

If these recommendations can't be followed or if the gasoline was less-stable than Chevron gasoline, driveability problems (hesitation, lack of power) may be encountered after storage. The probable cause is gum deposits in the carburetor, on the injectors, or on the fuel filter/screen. Treating the gasoline in the vehicle’s tank with a deposit-control additive may remove the problem deposits. Deposit-control additive concentrates are available at service stations and auto supply stores. Techron Concentrate is Chevron's most effective general purpose deposit-control additive. Follow the label instructions. Follow the label directions. If driveability doesn’t improve by the time the additized fuel has been used, consult a mechanic. Chevron recommends the mechanic check the fuel filter and the screen (if any) in the fuel tank for plugging.

If driveability doesn't improve by the time the additized fuel has been used, consult a mechanic. Chevron recommends the mechanic check the fuel filter and the screen (if any) in the fuel tank for plugging.

Boats

Boats With In-Board Engines: Follow the general storage recommendations. Seal/close the tank vent if possible.

Boats With Outboard Engines: Follow the recommendations for small-engine equipment (below).

Boat fuel tanks are more likely to be contaminated with water for obvious reasons. Check the fuel tank before storing the boat. Pump out any water and dispose of it in an environmentally responsible way.

Water removal is particularly important for boats used in salt water and for boats fueled with gasoline oxygenated with ethyl alcohol. Salt water corrodes some metals. So does the alcohol-water layer that separates if gasoline containing ethyl alcohol is contaminated with more than one percent water.

Formulation changes that have occurred in the past five years — the addition of oxygenates and the reduction in benzene and other aromatics — have made gasolines more subject to microbial growth. Even if no water is detected, add a biocide to the gasoline in the fuel tank. Follow the label directions. The best mixing is achieved if the biocide is added to the tank before it is filled with gasoline. Biocide additives are available at marinas and boat supply stores.

Small-Engine Equipment

This section applies to outboard motors, jet skis, snowmobiles, and lawn-and-garden equipment.

The owner’s manuals of much small-engine equipment recommend that the gasoline be less than 30 days old. They also recommend that the equipment not be stored with gasoline in the fuel tank. The tank should be emptied and the equipment run until the fuel line and carburetor also are empty. Both recommendations are intended to protect essential fuel system parts from gum deposits. While Chevron gasoline is stable for much longer than 30 days, it is Chevron’s policy to defer to the recommendations of the equipment manufacturer.

Follow the fuel and storage recommendations in the owner’s manual for your equipment.

Even if it is not recommended, draining the fuel from the equipment is the preferred practice when it is easy to do.

If fuel is left in the equipment, follow the general storage recommendations.

Equipment with a two-stroke-cycle engine requires fuel that is a mixture of gasoline and oil. While this mixture is as stable as gasoline, Chevron recommends not preparing more than you can use in a month or two because disposing of any excess is not easy. The gasoline-oil mixture should not be added to the fuel tank of a gasoline-fueled four-stroke-cycle vehicle.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Seishin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 20 2006 at 11:54am

Just to throw in my .02 worth..

 I currently own a 12KW generator and I must say it has been a real asset.  I live north of Houston Tx. And when the hurricane came through our area we were without power for 5+ days.  During that time the generator kept my house going completely!

 You have a large number of questions and I will try to answer a few of them here..

 First off, to start a refrigerator or any other appliance with a motor, will require a surge current.  Newer items have a lower surge requirement when compared to older items.  For instance an air-conditioner that’s 10 years old will have a higher start up current than a modern one.  Knowing this the manufactures will put a surge rating on the generator.

 For instance, my Generac is a 12KW generator.  Meaning it will handle a surge up to 12,000 watts but it rated to output 10,000 watts.  At this point you have to do basic math to make your determination.  VoltsXAmps (current) = Watts.  110VX4.5A=495Watts.

 I connect my generator to my house directly through the outside breaker box.  I turn off the main power (just incase it comes back on, don’t want a fire) and connect the 50A plug on the generator directly to a 220V breaker.  This allows me to feed power to the entire house and the proper voltage to a central air unit. (remember, some items are 220V and others are 110V)  For safety The 50A plug goes into the breaker box and connects to a breaker.  This also allows me to disconnect he generator from the house by flipping the breaker off.

 Inside my house I have a second breaker panel for all things in the house (I also have a work shop, water well, etc.)  When I am ready to start the generator I turn ALL breakers off (including the one connected directly to the generator) start the generator and generally give it a few minutes to warm up, and then begin turning on the breakers that I need.  Of the items that I operate on the generator, the two with the most surge current are the water well and the air conditioner.  With everything off, I will turn on the AC.  After it has completely started I will turn on other breakers in the house (generally the fridge, freezer are next).  I run the AC full and cool the house as much as possible and then shut it off.  I do not allow it to cycle because if I am running other appliances in the house and it kicks on with a heavy surge it may trip the generator off.

 With my unit during the power outage, I was able to turn on the AC, then my fridge, freezer, all lights, water well, and an extension cord to my neighbor to run her fridge without any problems.  (at night you could see the muffler glowing a orange/red color!)  Note that if you have a water well then you have a water storage tank.  The well pressurizes the tank and after reaching its pressure shuts off.  I would charge the tank and then turn off the breaker.  When I was out of pressure I would charge it up again.  My take provides a reserve for doing this of about 50 gallons.

 For a spare I bought a 4000KW unit to run two window units should by big generator ever fail (got a good deal on a used on).  I figure another hurricane is likely to come and I want to be ready.  The smaller unit is also much more fuel efficient for running smaller items, like window units, fridge, freezer, tv, etc.

 The big unit runs on Gas and this is a bit of a problem.  The tank is 10Gallons and I generally ran 10 Gallons a day.  I would say around 8 hours out of that 10 gallons.  I only ran the appliances as necessary.  On occasion I would turn on the water heater and charge it.  It would last over 24 hours with reasonability warm water into the next day (enough to shower)  I also have an electric stove that I ran (no more than 2 surfaces) while the AC and fridge and freezer (lets not forget the entertainment center) were working.

 You mention having a 1.2KW unit.  This is very small and may not start the fridge pending on its age and surge requirements.  You can try it with and extension cord and see what happens.  If it is able to start it, then you are likely fine, but I doubt you will be able to run much more than a few lights along with the fridge.  Be careful testing it and if it does not start right away, unplug it.  You don’t want to damage the fridge.

 For gas storage I currently have 52 gal in storage for the next disaster, what ever that may be.  I figure that’s 5 days worth of gas.  I keep it in plastic containers with fuel stabilizers added (if you do not add the chemicals, gas will form a gel that will eventually make it worthless.)  The nice thing about small containers is that I can use the gas in my truck every six months and replace with fresh gas.  Don’t worry about not being able to start your car with summer gas in the winter.  The only real difference has to do with pollution reduction and I understand the EPA has lifted those restrictions because of the high gas prices.  (they made it cheaper for the oil companies to make the stuff, imagine that!)  Generators have different motors from cars or trucks.  They are much more like the lawnmower and because of their simplicity, they can often run on bad gas (or gas that is going bad) and work fine.  Just make sure there is no water in the gas!

 For extended use you may want to have oil and filters on hand for long term power outage.  Most have an air filter and some have oil filters as well.  My large one has a spin on oil filter that I could not find during the hurricane, so now I have 3!   My small one has a really weird air filter that’s a bit hard to fine, so keeping them in stock may be important.

 1200 watts is not a whole lot of power.  If you go larger please be careful about the size of the wire you use to connect it to your home or appliances.  My wire to go from the big generator to the house is 6 gauge stranded (only bought stranded to make it easier to roll up, solid is cheaper and just fine).  Use the wrong size wire and you could have a fire or at minimum damage the generator or appliances.  Check with your local hardware store and they can help you pick the right wire for the job.  My cable is 12 foot long with a 50A plug on one end and cost me close to 150.00 to make.  My smaller generator I used a stove connector (sold at hardware stores, stranded, and made for up to 30A, about 6 feet long) to save money.  About $15-$20.

 I wish you luck, and please be safe!

 
Seishin

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2ifbyC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 20 2006 at 4:48pm
Seishin,
 
That's a nice write up. It sums up some of the other posts throughout the site. Thumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote richard eugene Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 05 2006 at 12:01am
I've tried storing gas for 16 years with stableizers, and I can say that it leaves a lot to be desired. I took a propane tank off a truck and put it on a trailer along with my generator. I dont have to worry about the fuel going bad, or if its going to start. I can move the generator to any propane tank and with a liquid withdrawal hose I can refill (until equal pressure) the generators supply tank.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote montanamoose Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 08 2006 at 12:05am
as part of our prepping we had an electrician wire a transfer switch to the back of our house in the event of long term power outage.  He assures me that we can run all of our lights, freezers, frig, fans on fireplaces, pressure tank, water pump, etc... at the same time.  we only need be mindful of things that create heat such as the oven, clothes dryer and the like.  it's a very nifty system.
 
we keep several gallons of gas and stabilizer on hand at all times.  we could run our generator for 3 hours a day , everyday , for the next 70 days.  this would be enough to keep our freezers frozen and take care of essentials.
 
we lived for several months without electricity while waiting for the power company to run lines.  we quickly learned how to plan our daily chores and needs for electricity to a small window - to get everything done in a sequence.  we live in a remote area so others cannot hear our generator but have a large hole that it can be dropped into to avert sound.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BobFMB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 09 2006 at 3:54pm
Does anyone know how to get gas out of your vehicle?  I remember a while back someone was going to post how to do this but I never got the info.  I tried during hurricane Charley to siphon gas, but couldnt do it right.  Most of the gas stations around us were down because the pumps ran on electricity, and they didn't have backup generators.  This was a major problem after Wilma, in Ft. Lauderdale also.  They could get gas delivered but only a couple of gas stations ran on generators.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 09 2006 at 4:01pm
I KNOW THAT SOME CARS HAVE A SCREEN IN THEM TO PREVENT SOMEONE FROM GETTING THE GAS. THE ONES THAT DON'T WE JUST USE A WATER HOSE CUT THE END OFF IT AND PUT INTO TANK AND SUCK ON THE OTHER END. I HAVE DONE IT 2 TIMES BUT MY HUSBAND DOES IT ALL THE TIME. THEY HAVE TO EMPTY THE GAS TANK ON WRECKED CARS AT THE YARD EVERY EVENING. HE SAID SOME HAVE A DRAIN VALVE THAT YOU CAN TURN TO OPEN. IF YOU WILL TELL ME WHAT KINDA CAR I WILL ASK HIM WHEN HE GETS IN TONIGHT.
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BobFMB View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BobFMB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 09 2006 at 4:27pm
Ours  must have some sort of siphon stopping devices installed at the factory.  I cant get any hose deep enough to access the gas.  I have a late model Caravan and my wife drives a Mercedes C series sedan.  I remember back in the seventies you could easily siphon gas until the gas crisis of the late seventies, when everyone started getting locking gas caps and antisiphon devices for their cars.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 09 2006 at 7:45pm
BUTCH SAID THE CARAVAN HAS A SCREEN YOU WOULD HAVE TO HAVE SOMETHING FLEXABLE AND STRONG ENOUGH TO PUT A HOLE IN THE SCREEN TO GET THE GAS  HE SAY TO DROP THE TANK IS BEST. ADOUT THE MERCEDES HES NOT TO SURE ABOUT IT.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 09 2006 at 11:19pm
Buy a 12 volt electric fuel pump, hook to gas line and turn it on. Will empty gas tank in no time at all.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 700renegade Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 10 2006 at 6:54am
mountainwinds,
 
I'd assume there is a small percentage of the population that would be able to correctly hook up an outboard fuel pump and decipher the difference between the fuel lines, vapor lines, liquid return lines, which have check valves, etc, etc.
 
Anyone with that skill would take the easier route - just apply power to the existing 12 volt pump that almost every car has already - in the fuel tank!  For those thinking about this - you need to disconnect the fuel lines somewhere beyond the tank, hotwire 12 volts into the plug that feeds the pump ( I have wiring diagrams for all my vehicles ) and the internal pump will do it's thing.  The reason you have to hotwire the pump rather than just turn on the key is that all vehicles have an intrinsically safe system that cuts power to the pump unless the engine is being cranked over or the engine is actually running.  This is to prevent fuel from being pumped out into the wreckage of an accident scene.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Catmando Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 10 2006 at 5:06pm

Hi guys, I had to change my ID for some reason, I was 911bob. The Tri Gas Carb. works great!! Smile

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AVanarts View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AVanarts Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 10 2006 at 7:06pm
That's nice to hear.  I hope to get mine someday.  I got an e-mail on 6/11 saying that my tri gas adapter would ship that week and I haven't seen it yet.
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