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Any way to convert my well to manual pump?

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700renegade View Drop Down
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    Posted: August 10 2006 at 4:03pm
I'm fortunate enough to live in the country with my own well and septic system, and have a industrial grade small diesel generator and enough fuel for at least a year if the electric is out.
 
Water supply is therefore no problem, but I was thinking, what if I have some electrical or mechanical problem with the submersible pump itself?  You have Murphy's law, plus more probability of electric surges while off-grid, etc, etc.
 
I can handle disengaging the pitless adaptor ( I'll need to look for a diagram to be sure I know how to disengage my style ) and pulling the pump ( that backhoe has to be put to use for something in my idle time ).  At that point, does anyone have any thoughts on what I'd use to pull up the water in the 6" casing?  I assume depth to static water is 30 or 40'.
 
If electric is still availabe, I'm thinking there must be some small temporary submersilbe type pump I could drop in w/ a garden hose so I can at least have water to carry in to the house.  A safer bet is to have something strictly mechanical like a bailer that I could pull up w/ a rope.
 
Thoughts?????
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July View Drop Down
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Why not just have a spare submirsible pump on hand?  If you have the means to pull the old one to clear the case, why not just drop in a new one?"
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700renegade View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 700renegade Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 11 2006 at 3:45pm

True I could just buy a new 1/2 or 3/4 deep well pump and put it on the shelf.  The danger in that is the bad guys have bigger guns than me and my generator disapears, or breaks down, etc.  I was thinking true manual is the best "worst case scenario"

Those links provided are great info - in most cases pricey, but I imagine this is a rarely sold item.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Weird-one Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 25 2006 at 11:47am

700renegade, Iím with you I want a stone axe simple method of getting water out of that hole.  If I'm using this method I don't need lots o water just high quality water.  If you don't like the cost of the commercial units you can make one out of PVC.

 

If your casing is 4" use a 3" piece of PVC 2' or 3' long.  Drill a small hole in a cap and install a threaded screw eye in the hole to attach a cable or rope to.  You could also just pass a rope through the hole and tie a knot in the rope.  Just remember if the rope breaks your bucket will end up in the bottom of your well.  Glue the cap on and drill another bigger hole either in the side or the top to pour water out of you bucket.

 

The other end needs a valve that will open when you drop the bucket into the water and close when you pull it out.  I would use a kids soft plastic ball that floats smaller in diameter than the bucket.  Get a stub of PVC with an inner diameter that will allow the ball to move in it but be close to the same as the ball diameter.  Don't make the stub too long or the valve won't close when you pull it up.  Drill some holes in the stub that will allow water to enter the bucket.  Drill two holes in the top of the stub and insert a wire.  This will keep the ball from floating out of the top of the valve.  Obviously brass or stainless wire would be better here but if this is a temporary solution then good ol hanger wire will work.  Finally glue another adapter into the bottom of the valve.  This will act as the seat.

 

Use an adapter fitting on the bottom of the bucket to glue the homemade valve in the bucket.  The valve will stick up into the bucket not down.  You will probably have to modify the adapter to get the stub to stick up into the bucket. 

 
If the valve every goes bad you can cut the adapter off the bottom and make a new valve.
 

Steve
 
Originally posted by 700renegade 700renegade wrote:

I'm fortunate enough to live in the country with my own well and septic system, and have a industrial grade small diesel generator and enough fuel for at least a year if the electric is out.
 
Water supply is therefore no problem, but I was thinking, what if I have some electrical or mechanical problem with the submersible pump itself?  You have Murphy's law, plus more probability of electric surges while off-grid, etc, etc.
 
I can handle disengaging the pitless adaptor ( I'll need to look for a diagram to be sure I know how to disengage my style ) and pulling the pump ( that backhoe has to be put to use for something in my idle time ).  At that point, does anyone have any thoughts on what I'd use to pull up the water in the 6" casing?  I assume depth to static water is 30 or 40'.
 
If electric is still availabe, I'm thinking there must be some small temporary submersilbe type pump I could drop in w/ a garden hose so I can at least have water to carry in to the house.  A safer bet is to have something strictly mechanical like a bailer that I could pull up w/ a rope.
 
Thoughts?????
For once in my life I hope I'm wasting money!
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700renegade View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 700renegade Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 25 2006 at 4:05pm
Steve ( aka wierd-one)
 
I was onto this same thought before I read your post.  In the sake of KISS engineering, I am going to just use a $6 sump pump check valve as the bottom valve.  They easily pass water, and will close plenty tight once a guy starts to hoist the contraption up the casing.  Simple....
 
I think a cap on the top of the 3" pvc will be a must - otherwise all those years worth of rust and barnicles clinging to the sides of my casing will end up inside the bailer.
 
Now the D.I.Y. in me is thinking I could use the sump pump check and a column of pvc or poly pipe ( 1" ?) and somehow rig it to operate just like an old hand pump with out spending $300 on something that will probably never get used.  Hmmmmm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Weird-one Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 27 2006 at 8:59am

700renegade, you know if that check valve opens easily enough you may be able to put it on the bottom of some 1" PVC and pump water up the pipe by sharply shoving the 1" pipe down, thereby opening the check valve and forcing water out the top.  You would, of course, have to put a tee at the top of the 1" to direct the water to somewhere but that would also prevent the pipe from falling down into your casing.  I may try this if push comes to shove.  If you try this let me know, would ya? 

 

Yea the cap is a must and with that in mind the pour hole should probably be in the side or better yet something you can close or plug up.  I didn't think about that.

 

I love the store bought check valve idea; I'll have enough to do if I'm dragging water out of a well by hand.

 

Steve

 
Originally posted by 700renegade 700renegade wrote:

Steve ( aka wierd-one)
 
I was onto this same thought before I read your post.  In the sake of KISS engineering, I am going to just use a $6 sump pump check valve as the bottom valve.  They easily pass water, and will close plenty tight once a guy starts to hoist the contraption up the casing.  Simple....
 
I think a cap on the top of the 3" pvc will be a must - otherwise all those years worth of rust and barnicles clinging to the sides of my casing will end up inside the bailer.
 
Now the D.I.Y. in me is thinking I could use the sump pump check and a column of pvc or poly pipe ( 1" ?) and somehow rig it to operate just like an old hand pump with out spending $300 on something that will probably never get used.  Hmmmmm
For once in my life I hope I'm wasting money!
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700renegade View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 700renegade Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 27 2006 at 10:28pm
Steve,  no need for a pour hole anywhere - just put a small ( 1/4" ? ) air vent near the top of the tube.  When you pull the contraption clear of the casing, just poke your finger up against the bottom of the check valve - the water can come right back out the bottom.
 
I don't think your going to be able to cycle that pipe fast enough by hand to get water to the top and coming out ( at least in my case - as I assume water level is 50' down. ).  Maybe instead of investing in a new piece of exercise equipment, I can rig up my wife's exercycle to the downrod of a traditional well pump - I can envision her out there already - cycling away to get enough water to do the wash and cooking!
 
p.s. my wife does not log on here - can you tell?
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