Tracking the next pandemic: Avian Flu Talk |
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dennis2
Valued Member Original Join Date: Long Term Member Joined: July 31 2007 Status: Offline Points: 267 |
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JONESIE -
Yes, I too have some solar lanterns, crank lights, lamp oil, ... and so on. I also have a lot of candles- I get them at the after Christmas sales. You can get them cheap then. PS- hand sanitizer is great for starting fires. And olive/cooking oil can double in some oil lamps and cooking. |
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after all is said and done- more is said than done
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web ferret
Admin Group Original Join Date: Long Term Member Joined: August 30 2007 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 107 |
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Can you light a candle and/or a gas stove with those flint steel things?
I know that they will light tinder and I guess that they would light a gas flame but what about a candle?
Is there any particular type to go for???
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diego
Valued Member Location: Michigan Joined: June 16 2006 Status: Offline Points: 121 |
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also don't forget the fire starter that will never ware out. get a few of the good quality glass magnifiers or hand Len's. save the others for a rainy day. where have we heard that before? also can be used after your glasses don't cut it any more for us old geezers. besides 4-0 steel wool for tinder, something for free, start saving your dryer lint. you guy's left out the bow drill method, mountain man style.
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dennis2
Valued Member Original Join Date: Long Term Member Joined: July 31 2007 Status: Offline Points: 267 |
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I find the mirror reflector from an old flashlight is easier to use than a magnifier. Just put a bit of lint with some hand sanitizer where the bulb (focus) would have been. To you optics people- it has a smaller "f number" so it gets hotter than the focus of most magnifiers.
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after all is said and done- more is said than done
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jacksdad
Executive Admin Joined: September 08 2007 Location: San Diego Status: Offline Points: 47251 |
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I've rigged up all my dual fuel and propane lanterns with a nifty little lighter that permanently fixes to the base of the lantern. I found them at Walmart for less than $3 each. No need to pop the top and remove the globe - you just push it in until it's close to the mantle and twist the end. A flint showers the mantle with sparks and you're away. The flints are replaceable and cheap. For the stoves I have lots of packs of disposable lighters. I bought some more fuel oil today, but the oil lamps are secondary lighting - the gasoline ones are so bright and run so economically I'd be comfortable with relying on them a little more for lighting. So as not to put all my eggs in one basket I have a few deep cycle batteries that I'm looking into charging with a wind powered generator and/or solar panels. I had a boat out in an achorage near here and lots of boaters use both to keep their batteries topped up. There are plans online for homemade wind generators using automotive alternators, and I can weld and fabricate so making a couple of those wouldn't be a problem. I have 12v flourescents I'd probably use with the batteries because of the lower draw. I already have one small solar panel, but Harbor Freight Tools have larger ones pretty cheap that would probably do the job too.
Jonesie - I've seen solar powered lanterns in Walmart, but I always wondered if they were worth getting. What brand is yours? I'll definitely look into that. I'll definitely pick up some more packs of the small 50 hour oil lamps from Smart and Final. Another three packs (at a cost of just over $20) would theoretically give me 1500 hours of light. I shouldn't imagine they'd be that bright, but most definitely better than nothing. The reasoning behind the small packs of yeast was longevity. The larger (and cheaper) quantities I've seen require storage in a cool place once opened, which I can't guarantee I'll have if a pandemic were to hit in the summer. Temperatures here reached 112 degrees a month or so ago. The small packs have at least a two year shelf life and opening each one doesn't compromise the rest as would be the case as soon as I broke the seal on a larger amount. I know it's way more expensive, but on this one I figured the extra cost was worth it. Going back to the fuel issue, the research I'm doing on haybox cooking suggests a potential saving on cooking fuel of up to 80%, as well as saving water that would be lost to evaporation. Between that and solar cooking I could devote more of my stored fuel to lighting. Thanks for the feedback so far. This forum rocks, don't you think? |
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Penham
Chief Moderator Moderator Joined: February 09 2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 14913 |
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jacksdad www.solarcooking.org there are many different solar cookers to make with free designs. I made the car shade solar cooker last year and experimented with it and it works well. Several others on the board did also, there is an old thread, I think in Priority Preps about the results of different people trying things out. I liked the car shade one because it seemed to be the easiest, requiring no building, easy to pack away, easy to transport and the cheapest, I already had the bucket and other items, I just had to purchase the car shade for $4.99 at Walmart.
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Boondocker
Valued Member Joined: August 22 2007 Status: Offline Points: 119 |
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Been scouring the internet for the ideas Jacksdad and I mulled over previously about insulated cookers and settled on a slightly different set up.
With foam insulation, it's highly fire resistant, but has been known to so reflect radiant heat, it more or less becomes a magnifier or flashpot. Placing any sort of electrified coil within it worries me in a worst case scenario, even with repeated mylar or aluminum sheeted baffles. For a day or so, it should be fine. Though what if you struck down with influenza and in a not right mind, forget about what's slowly cooking... or worse yet, can't get to it? After a couple of days, the accumulated heat of the core wouldn't just cook dry the contents, it would most possibly warp the very insulating characteristics of the foam/mylar insulation resulting in an extreme conflagration-explosion.
On a concrete block outside, it might not be such an issue. Though cooking outside is akin to asking for dinner invites in a close knit community, or driving suspicions, theft.
I'm not comfortable risking the fire hazard of having such indoors (even if tested on a multitude of occasions, and seemingly okay)
Nothing short of learning how to program PIC chips will reduce my fears on this, and I'm not about to waste a couple hundred dollars worth of savings for something I might only use once or twice. I could go the traditional route and solder up a monstrosity, but that's not going to do well with a minimum rated solar panel based on budgeting. The convenience would be great, so would having PIC backups. A fruitless circle. To pay or not to pay. And then experiment until it pays. All very costly for a backup to 6 plus months worth of already secured cooking power and last case scenario backups.
I've decided to go with a cheap and safe alternative which if run on a long lead internally to the house, a panel and 12 v dedicated battery can cope with every day.
This one is larger and would draw more amps than necessary, though I've seen extremely small ones which draw almost a third of the amps.
I'd not build a further insulating box for it, if it's stationed in a house instead of a concrete slab with firebunkers, based on safety.
A few hundred dollars and very selective sale price shopping standards, and I should be able to have a perpetually renewing cooking solution as a first tier to multi leveled plans. Petro chemicals second, solar box cookers third, organic matter fourth, and fly by the seat of the pants fifth.
Penham, the car shade works. So does cutting the seams out of a soft padded esky cooler with reflective coating, and reversing it. The added insulation helps to not reduce as well. Been wondering if one can't construct a large aluminum sheeted dish from a child's sandbox toy and funneling it into a soft cell reflective esky cooler seamed into the centre.
I watched the Mythbusters episode on death rays, and while they couldn't attain the necessary heat to beam to distance based object, the heat they did get was pretty momumental.
A roll of foil, or chucked out fragments of full length mirror (assuming you have a glass cutter, square, tape measure, and level) would probably do the trick, even if you had to keep increasing the top most outer circumference. (leave the support struts open ended past the lip and add as you go bearing in mind to monitor with a high heat rated digi thermometre and equally rated probe to prevent plastic wire coating melt point). Eventually, the core temperature could be attained enough for at mimimum, slow cooker heat over peak solar daytime.
Just want to stress to anyone attempting their own electrical innovations!!!
I am not an expert!!! I am backyard operator with a few formulas, a few ideas, and a few fire fears based on experiments which resulted in memorable stories. For SAFE and TRIED AND TRUE solutions, consult an ELECTRICAL ENGINEER OR TECHNICIAN!!!
DO NOT POINT YOUR INSURANCE COMPANIES my way. Use common sense and only go where you feel comfortable.
They'll cost you the earth, but... then again, if your earth is safe, not much can happen to your preps.
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JONESIE
V.I.P. Member Joined: September 05 2007 Status: Offline Points: 31 |
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I was at Home Depot the other day. They sell a water heater insulator for around $20. It had a flexible reflective material on both sides with an insulating material between the 2. The insulation looked about 1/2 inch thick.
Now that might be useful for retaining heat while cooking. It retains heat for the water heater and cuts water heating costs.. And the materials probably are made to tolerate high heat.
Go take a look at it and see if it would be useful.
Life is a series of experiences, each one of which makes us bigger,
even though sometimes it is hard to realize this.
For the world was built to develop character, and we must learn that the setbacks and grieves which we endure help us in our marching onward. Henry Ford |
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jacksdad
Executive Admin Joined: September 08 2007 Location: San Diego Status: Offline Points: 47251 |
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That might work, Jonesie. Given the size of the box I was thinking of using, and the size of an average water heater, I bet it would be big enough to build up several layers around whatever cooking pot you were using.
Boondocker - I see what you mean. With heat loss cut to an absolute minimum and radiant heat being reflected back in, a heating coil in a heavily insulated box could potentially raise temperatures to a dangerous level. I'd like to see what you come up with - it sounds ingenious. I'm going camping in the next few weeks and if (big if) I get time I'd like to build a rudementary hay box and test it out. I have a cooler that's not the best and I was planning on investing in a 5-day wheeled one. The other one will be surplus to requirements so I may look into using that. While it's not the best cooler, it'll be more efficient than the wooden box I was thinking of making. The plastic shell should be fine as the insulation will protect it from the heat of the food. |
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