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PANDEMIC ALERT LEVEL
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Online Discussion: Tracking new emerging diseases and the next pandemic since 2005; Coronavirus COVID-19 Pandemic Discussion Forum.

WATER

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    Posted: January 29 2006 at 4:27pm

Important information about water.

Storing

Disinfecting

Collecting & Conserving

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 29 2006 at 5:17pm

I store my water in washed out 2 litre pop bottles..few drops of regular house bleach...

Also when and if power goes out..fill all of your pots,sink,tubs and any containers you have with water..to use for washing..you can also use the water in your hot water tank(I have read lately it would be ok to dring)

 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AuntBones Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 29 2006 at 5:40pm
Locate shut off valve to your main waterpipe in  your house. Make sure you have a wrench to turn it off if need be. If your city water system is down remember do not drink the water for 72 hours.
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Originally posted by corky52:

My view is that the likely length of this  event is sooner or later going to force most of us to hunt water, lots of water!  The little survival filters aren't going to hack it for very long or be a very comfortable volume.  Do you have a way to move volumes of water easily, it's heavy and bulky to move, and you'll need lots of it.  Can you clean the water and then kill all the bad stuff you can't see?

Fact: Water weighs 8 plus pounds per gallon!  5 gallons of water weighs 40 pounds, remember the pictures of the people with shoulder poles that had small buckets of water at each end, brutal!!

Fact: There are all kinds of crap that end up in free water, most of them nasty and hard to deal with. 

Fact: Viruses are extremely hard to kill in water and we'll be dealing with a virus based threat plus all the normal things.

We need to look beyond storage to purification if this event is as real as we believe.  Simple stuff will make effective purification but you have to have it on hand ahead of time.  You need to look for water sources you'll be able to access and at how you'll move the water to your places. 

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Originally posted by bruss01:

I am hoping for a fairly brief crisis, 2-6 months.  Currently we have some store-bought water in jugs for immediate use. We have over 100 gallons of water available in bulk storage. In a long-term emergency, myself and my wife would have to rely on water from our local river (which in time of crisis may be polluted  with untreated sewage or runoff) . So I share your concern about how to purify water on a long term basis.

I'd like to invite you to investigate the First Need water filter that is capable of removing darn near everything you'd find objectionable in water intended for drinking.  You can get replacement cartriges for the unit.  Many friends and I have used these on backpacking trips, the water has always been crystal clear.  One caution -  you need to protect the unit from freezing since the ceramic element can crack if frozen. 

For our bulk storage and for treating any questionable water obtained from an impure source, we plan to use swimming pool shock (calcium hypochlorite) to treat water.  We plan to have 4 barrels of 55 gallon capacity to store "city water", and we will be adding a minimal amount of shock just to give a base level of protection during storage, since the barrels will be sealed and the water changed out for fresh every 6 months.  We will have extra shock on hand for treating non-city water if needed.  We think this is better than bleach because calcium hypochlorite will store in dry form nearly indefinitely (10 years), whereas liquid chlorine bleach loses half of it's potency after a year (use twice as much for the same effect) and is next to worthless after two years.

For those who remember Y2K, here's a flashback for you:

"Dry chlorine, also called calcium hypochlorite has the added benefit of extended shelf life. Providing it is kept dry, cool and in an airtight container, it may be stored up to 10 years with minimal degradation. If you want to keep chlorine in larger quantities, this is the item to store (according to Bingo1). It must be ONLY 65% calcium hypochlorite, no addtional anti-fungals or clarifiers. In an EXTREMELY well ventilated area, (Hint: OUTSIDE!) add and dissolve one heaping teaspoon of high-test granular calcium hypochlorite (approximately 1/4 ounce) for each two gallons of water. Five pounds of dry pool bleach costs about $10-15, which will make about 92 gallons of bleach, which will sterilize 706,560 gallons of clear water, or 353,280 gallons of cloudy water. "


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote meewee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 29 2006 at 6:59pm
God Bless us all!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote swankyc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 29 2006 at 8:02pm

Quick easy way to get alot of water without hassle

I orignally posted this elsewhere

You can get large plastic tanks online that holds a little up to several hundred gallons and dont really take too much room up.  There is a spigot on the front of them that makes getting the water easy. 

Something like this:

http://www.watertanks.com/category/153/

 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Doodlebug Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 30 2006 at 9:00am
www.gotwater2.com (sorry, can't get link button to work) has water bladders of 30 gal., 60 gal., and on up.  They're a bit more expensive than water barrels ($79 for 60 gal), but they fold up and store easily when not in use, and they cost very little to ship ($23.80 to ship four to my house).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boozy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 30 2006 at 11:49am
save it now.......gallon jugs from milk,juice,pop jugs..............because your goin 2 have water 2 cook............
i'm soory 4 what i've did and 2 say i love everybody n the world............

make your peace now with people u love or know
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http://www.nitro-pak.com/index.php?cPath=40

Water barrels.  The cost is a few hundred dollars out of pocket, but you can store ALOT of water.  Use it when you have to, top off in between episodes of power outs.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scott Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 06 2006 at 9:42pm
New to the site. I hope to add what little knowledge I have.

http://www.nitro-pak.com/index.php?cPath=40
The Miox water purifier.
I purchased this unit. It is small, requires no cartridges etc. just a couple batteries. I also like this unit because it is so easy to carry in a bug out bag.
Claims to kill viruses-which is what we want in addition to other micro-bugs. Marines are using this in Iraq with no problems.

Primary concern of public water is not that it will run out, I think it will be the lack of capacity of your local municapality to treat the water. For example, where I live, they still use chlorine to kill viruses etc. at the treatment plant. You may live in an area where they utilize UV to kill virus in drinking water. With a "just in time" global economy, my municapality probably has a weeks worth of chlorine on hand. After that, we will be required to boil the water which will kill the virus (power or not, there will be no chlorine in the supply chain)  UV equipped facilities (water plants) will not have a chlorine problem as they use UV to kill virus. Of course if the power is out or speratic, UV does not work. The pumps will not work any way. I would not chance it.....Anything that comes from an outside pipe is going to get treated with clorox, miox etc.

We all hope to have enough stored water, but in worse case scenario no water in the pipe, no lake or river, you can always extract water from the air utilzing plastic, stone and some twine. Solar Kiln, or something like that.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scott Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 06 2006 at 9:48pm
Sorry, not Solar Kiln. What I should have said was Solar Still. Just Google "Solar Still" Desert USA is a good site for directions.


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that dry chlorine idea has been the best one I have heard in a long time. Would it be for sale at most pool supply places?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bruss01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 08 2006 at 7:46pm
Yup - just be sure you get plain old calcium hypochlorite with no additives for algae or ph or stabilizer. Cost about 5 bucks per pound here.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Penham Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 09 2006 at 9:05pm
The calcium hypochlorite is that sort of like shock for the pool? Or is it something similar? We have a pool, which as long as the electricity is on and can be filtered, I suppose it would be fairly safe to drink? Or would I still want to add this or bleach to the water for drinking? After a couple of days without being filtered (no electricity) I imagine the pool water would start getting yucky. At what point would it not be useable for drinking or cooking? This is my first post here and I have been reading for a couple of days now, just taking all the info in.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mom 4 six Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 12 2006 at 11:34am
i have been doing laundry and noticed the number of plastic storage tubs that i have holding christmas decorations and family pictures.  I think that i will transfer some of those items into cardboard boxes for a while and wash these out to store water for cleaning and washing.  that should hold a nice amount  i will just have to be sure i have them where i want to store them before i fill them up.   (weight issues)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bruss01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 12 2006 at 12:21pm
Penham, yup that is exactly what it is.  You're right, pool water can start to go downhill in a few days without filtration, but if you have bleach or calcium hypochlorite to add, it will be ok.  You will probably want to filter it also, so you might consider either a camping/backpacking hand pump filter, or something larger (big berkey has been mentioned).  As long as it's treated/filtered, the water in the pool will be useable.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RotroShaggy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 13 2006 at 3:57pm
This may be a stupid question, but I have never heard of anyone talk about whether or not it is possible for H5N1 to infect the water supply.  Is this possible?  Is it possible for the virus to be transported through our water supply, thereby making it unsafe to drink tapwater?  Just curious.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 13 2006 at 5:57pm

Originally posted by RotroShaggy RotroShaggy wrote:

This may be a stupid question, but I have never heard of anyone talk about whether or not it is possible for H5N1 to infect the water supply.  Is this possible?  Is it possible for the virus to be transported through our water supply, thereby making it unsafe to drink tapwater?  Just curious.

The H5N1 flu virus can survive at cool temperatures in contaminated manure for about three months. One gram of matter has enough virus to infect 1 million birds and the virus can survive in water for upto 4 days at 22oC and for >30 days at 0 deg C (32 degrees F), if not longer.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RotroShaggy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 14 2006 at 6:10am
Thanks, KillerFlu.net.  So, maybe another stupid question, but boiling water would kill the virius?  For how long?  What about a hot shower?  Are we potentially showering ourselves with the virus?  Would the heat of the shower water kill the virus?  These seem like stupid questions, but I've never really thought about it before.  It would be a shame to be all set up to survive and then realize you infected yourself in the bathtub with contaminated city water when you were trying to wash away the virus you were actually bathing in it . . . .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Penham Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 14 2006 at 2:03pm
Ok another calcium hypochlorite question. My pool store only carries 73%, is that too high? They only carry big buckets for $77, which is ok cause I will always use it in the pool later, but I don't want to get it if the % is too high to use for drinking water. The other option is Walmart, but they only have the 56% and it has other ingredients, but doesn't list the other ingredients? Or should I keep looking? I can check another pool store, K Mart? Does it absolutely have to be the 65%, I know the earlier post says it must be no more than 65%, why? And there are two different types, both cost the same, both have the same ingredients and %, but one you mix with water first before adding to the water, the other you just add directly to the water, which is better? Thanks for any help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 19 2006 at 4:31pm
Another water question: we have two bathtubs. One the standard size you find in most apartments, the larger one is quite deep. Can somebody help me figure out the math so I can calculate how much water I can store in them? Thanks much
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 19 2006 at 4:50pm

I found this on calculating water in an aquarium... same principle I would imagine.

http://www.aquariumfish.net/information/aquarium_arithmetic. htm

2.  How much Water Does my Aquarium Hold?
The
here to read the Recommended Treatment, which includes adding one drop of Quick Cure for each gallon of water and one Tablespoon of Aquarium Salt for each five gallons of water.  To give your fish the Recommended Treatment you'll need to know how many gallons of water your aquarium holds. Here's how to measure and calculate the volume of your aquarium.
   
     
  • Measure your aquarium from the left edge to the right edge. For example, my aquarium measures 18 inches.
     

  • Measure your aquarium from the bottom edge to the top edge. My aquarium is 12 inches.
     

  • Measure the aquarium along the side from the front edge to the back edge. Mine is 12 inches.
     

  • Multiply the three measurements. I got my small calculator and carefully entered 18 x 12 x 12 = 2592 cubic inches. Then multiply that number by 0.00433 to convert from cubic inches to gallons. I got 11.2 gallons of water in my aquarium.

   

To get a more accurate answer I realized I should have measured inside the aquarium. Measuring inside I get 17.75 x 11.75 x 11.75 = 2450.6, multiplied by 0.00433 is 10.6 gallons. So measuring inside the aquarium instead of outside reduces the volume from 11.2 to 10.6 gallons of water inside my aquarium

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 19 2006 at 4:55pm

  Water goes for $5.00 a gallon after an emergency such as Katrina. Here is a link to a good article about emergency water supplies. Best bet is to use new food grade containers designed for water.

Figure 1-2 gallons per day per person. If someone is sick with H5 they will be losing fluids from every opening. They'll need extra.

Prep-On

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sweets Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 20 2006 at 8:41am
Could someone please tell me how long commercial bottled water stays good in 90 degree temperature? Looking at 2 months of hot summer weather
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It will be fine. I have had bottles in my boat/quad/packs for over a year, did not kill me.
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Sohia, I just realized that I didn't thank you for the math formula. How rude of me! Thank you very, very much. Now I know I can store another 120 gls. Right now my filled containers are in them (kind of out of sight), but can be filled rapidly. What do you think about the inflatable pools, which can be gotten fairly inexpensivly. I found two different sizes at Walmart which have a cover. I have a covered deck in back, which I'm planning on using for shower/decon area, I think I'd be able to fit the smaller one there, which would give me another 125 gls. Any thoughts/opinions??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cosmicpixie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 22 2006 at 1:54am

for anybody in the UK, EBAY is good for purchasing water storage containers-i found huge plastic water butts with taps on there for 5.99 each plus 10 each postage,and plastic 5L jerry cans for 55pence.

Maybe EBAY has similar bargains on the pages for other countries too.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fritz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 22 2006 at 8:06pm

I've got a gravity filter with just 4 filters, no extras but they can be cleaned with bleach. Does anybody know if I should boil or use bleach first before filtering and then the filter could take out some of the chlorine taste. Although that might not be a good thing because I read if you can't smell the chlorine then it disapated(sp?) & you need to add some more. I have a 55 gal barrell in the garage, empty. Will bring inside and fill on final prep and several cases of Poland Springs which we use instead of tap water now. For 14 yrs. we had R.O. system w.UV and it was really great water. After hurricane Floyd the water by us was no good and we were the only ones I knew in our town who didn't have to boil it. We moved 6 mo. ago and my dogs got really sick from the city water in the new place, so we had to stop using it. Even boiling didn't help.  Now they're good but we wont use it. Wonder what's really in it that most people are drinking. Yuk.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mississipp Mama Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 22 2006 at 8:58pm
  Does anyone know how much i can expect to pay to have a hand pump well installed?  If you know of any sites that could give me some info, that would be great.  Does any one have any experience installing these.  Do i need to put some kind of filter on it?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote corky52 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 24 2006 at 1:38pm

http://www.pwgazette.com/gravity.htm

Cheap and quick but should work like a champ.  I've used these filters for years and they are great.  Anything down to sheep puddles will clean up through this rig.  Prefilter with anything handy, coffee filters would be ideal, pour through into main holding tank.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 24 2006 at 4:22pm
Can anyone advise on good water purifiers and filter please.
I hope I'm just a scare monger...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote corky52 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 24 2006 at 4:28pm

Andy,

The post above yours. Doulton's are hard to beat!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tybaltlives Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 27 2006 at 3:09pm

Hi Everyone:  I have about 45 gallons of water stored in drums in the garage.  I figured that was enough because we have a swimming pool - and I was just going to use the water in there (boiled or otherwise purified).

However, just this morning I caught two ducks who had overnighted in the pool.  Major bummer.  Now I am thinking that I need to really store more water because the pool water could easily become contaminated.

Just wanted everyone else to think about this too.

Thanks,

R

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 27 2006 at 9:15pm
I was thinking of filling several large gargage containers with tap water. I have 50 cases of water for drinking plus 20 cases cans of juice .   I will also fill up every container I can find in the house.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fritz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 27 2006 at 10:51pm
There are more questions than answers on this thread. I fear we are not that clear on the water solutions. Just not that easy, or cheap solutions I guess. Many challenges with this.  :>{
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 01 2006 at 8:52pm
Walmart has some inflatable pools in various price ranges. I'm considering one which will hold over 3,900 gallons for about $200. Has a cover so it should be safe. 
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Can anyone who purchased collapsable 5 gallon containers tell me if I need to purchase a spigot for each one, or can the same spigot be used over and over?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jtg1969 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 02 2006 at 12:10pm

I found this on the EPA's web site

 

http://www.epa.gov/safewater/faq/emerg.html

 

CHLORINE METHODS

Chlorine Bleach: When boiling is not practical, chemical disinfection should be used. Common household bleach contains a chlorine compound that will disinfect water. The procedure to be followed is usually written on the label. When the necessary procedure is not given, find the percentage of available chlorine on the label and use the information in the following tabulation as a guide.

Available Chlorine

Drops per Quart of Clear Water

1%

10

4-6%

2

7-10%

1

(If strength is unknown, add ten drops per quart of water. Double amount of chlorine for cloudy or colored water or water that is extremely cold.)

The treated water should be mixed thoroughly and allowed to stand, preferably covered, for 30 minutes. The water should have a slight chlorine odor; if not, repeat the dosage and allow the water to stand for an additional 15 minutes. If the treated water has too strong a chlorine taste, it can be made more pleasing by allowing the water to stand exposed to the air for a few hours or by pouring it from one clean container to another several times.

Granular Calcium Hypochlorite. Add and dissolve one heaping teaspoon of high-test granular calcium hypochlorite (approximately 1/4 ounce) for each two gallons of water. The mixture will produce a stock chlorine solution of approximately 500 mg/L, since the calcium hypochlorite has an available chlorine equal to 70 percent of its weight. To disinfect water, add the chlorine solution in the ratio of one part of chlorine solution to each 100 parts of water to be treated. This is roughly equal to adding 1 pint (16 oz.) of stock chlorine to each 12.5 gallons of water to be disinfected. To remove any objectionable chlorine odor, aerate the water as described above.

Chlorine Tablets.Chlorine tablets containing the necessary dosage for drinking water disinfection can be purchased in a commercially prepared form. These tablets are available from drug and sporting goods stores and should be used as stated in the instructions. When instructions are not available, use one tablet for each quart of water to be purified.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sunset Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 02 2006 at 12:15pm
              OK, I WILL PUT THIS QUESTION HERE, AND I HAVE ONE ON THE FOOD ALSO...CAN YOU PUT WATER INTO GALV. STEEL GARBAGE CANS [NEW ONES] AND PUT SOMETHING ON THE SIDE TO MAKE THE WATER  SHUT ON AND OFF?..........SUNSET
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jtg1969 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 02 2006 at 12:25pm

It may be a good idea, if you are planning on using chlorine or other chemical disinfectants, to use an activated carbon filter prior to use to filter out the resultant chlorine and carcinogenic THM's. 

Please see below:

Disinfection

Disinfection with aggressive chemicals like chlorine or ozone is normally the last step in purifying drinking water. Water is disinfected to destroy any pathogens which passed through the filters. Possible pathogens include viruses, bacteria including Escherichia coli and Shigella, and protozoans including Giardia lamblia and Cryptosporidium. Many water systems intentionally leave residual disinfection agents in the water after exiting the plant so it travels throughout the distribution system. The most common disinfection method is some form of chlorine such as chlorine gas, sodium hypochlorite, chloramine or chlorine dioxide. The water and chemical mix are allowed to sit in a large tank, called a clear well. The water must sit in the clear well to ensure that the water is in contact with the disinfectant for a minimum amount of time because it takes time to inactivate the harmful microbes. Chlorine is a strong oxidant that kills many microorganisms and remains in the water to provide continuing disinfection. Other disinfection methods include using ozone which acts very rapidly or Ultra Violet light that is almost instantaneous also inactivate pathogens.

Chlorine gas and sodium hypochlorite are the most commonly used disinfectants, because they are inexpensive and easy to manage. They are effective in killing bacteria, but have limited effectiveness against protozoans that form cysts in water (Giardia lamblia and Cryptosporidium, both of which are pathogenic). Chlorine gas and sodium hypochlorite both have strong residuals in the water once it enters the distribution system.

The main drawback in using chlorine gas or sodium hypochlorite is that these react with organic compounds in the water to form potentially harmful levels of the chemical by-products trihalomethanes (THMs) and haloacetic acids, both of which are carcinogenic and regulated by the U.S. EPA. The formation of THMs and haloacetic acids is minimized by effective removal of as many organics from the water as possible before disinfection and/or by adding ammonia immediately after chemical disinfection is completed. Formerly, it was common practice to chlorinate the water at the beginning of the purification process, but this practice has mostly been abandoned to minimize the production of THMs.

Chloramines are not as effective disinfectants compared to chlorine gas or sodium hypochlorite, but do not form THMs or haloacetic acids. They are typically used only in stored and distributed treated water. An example of this sort is proceeses using ozone for primary disinfection which is very quickly accomplished then using monochloramine to create a residual level of disinfectant in the water. Chlorine dioxide is another rapid acting disinfectant against bacteria but unlike ozone it leaves a long lasting residual in the water. Despite these beneficial characteristics, it is rarely used because it may creates excessive amounts of chlorate and chlorite, both of which are regulated to low allowable levels.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 02 2006 at 12:37pm

Sunset,

You might be able to drill in hole in your galv can and pass a threaded PVC nipple through.  You would silicon both sides and use a pvc nut on each side of the can to sinch up into the silicon.  Let it dry then attach your spickot to the outside.  Drill your hole close to the bottom but leave room for the nut and probably a washer.  I don't know if that would work, I would probably try it on a small (cheap can) if possible so if it does not work you are not out as much.  Someone else may have already made something similar and hopefully can better help.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote delphina Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 03 2006 at 10:43am
I've got a question about river water: I live right near the Danube (dead swans, I know). Could I get water when needed from there (it's pretty clean, as rivers go). What if I filtered and boiled it --- could we drink it then?
Thanks for any info on this!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Enumclaw,WA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 03 2006 at 10:58am
I know your not supposed to heat or weld galvanized metal because it let's of toxic fumes. Also if you put it on your roof whatever leaches out of it kills the moss. So I don't think I would use galvanized anything for my drinking water.
RB
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